Fellow-Traveler - The Caribbean Sailing Hostel Fellow-Traveler under sail in the Virgin Islands
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        “All [crew] must be of cheerful, equable temper, long-suffering, patient in adversity, tolerant of the whims and uncouth manners or habits of others, neat and cleanly, adaptable, unselfish, loyal - in fact, possessed of most of the qualities in which the majority of men, including myself, are notably deficient.”     Bill Tillman


On a trip one should travel with a companion of equal mind or one who has a better mind; one had better travel alone than travel with a fool."
 From the Dhammapada, as collected in The Teaching of Buddha

"There ain't no surer way to find out whether you like people or hate them than to travel with them. "  
Mark Twain

"And as for traveling alone? Fuck it! If that's the way it has to be, then that's the way it is."       Leonardo di Caprio's character in The Beach\

 

Working the boat under sail

Over the past six years I have frequently taken crew for portions of my travels. Sometimes these have been friends. Occasionally, they have been strangers who contacted me via the various websites that connect crew and boats. My experiences have been varied. I would say, when taking friends as crew, my success rate is about 50% in finding someone who proves to be pleasant company, able to stand a solid watch, and pulled their load with chores aboard. With the crew websites, however, my success rate is 0%: no one met the three criteria above. I would begin to wonder if the problem was with me, except that I have always gotten along quite well with the professional crews I have worked with on various boats, despite the much higher expectations.  Quite honestly, the viewpoint from the film The Beach quoted above is becoming my modus operandi. I recently completed the 3000 mile passage from the Galapagos to French Polynesia, probably the longest I will ever undertake, solo as the crew who was aboard to do the trip decided he was not cut out for ocean passages, and left the boat in the Galapagos. A friend once told me of a passage, not overly long, where his crew, an acquaintance, grabbed his dog a day or so out and threatened to kill it if not taken immediately to the nearest point of land. I have not had any experiences that extreme. But, quite honestly, I wonder if it is worth the effort anymore. I expect, after this year (2010) I will be done with long passages for a bit as I hope to spend some extended time in S.E. Asia exploring. However, if you are reading this and feel you would be solid crew as I continue across the Pacific, you may contact me and express your interest. But please: know yourself well enough to have some idea that you will not go over the edge on an ocean passage. After all, it is only a few weeks out of your life. And the rewards at the end are often magnificent.

I currently only take one c
rew. This allows for better food (limited fridge and freezer space), plenty of water for bathing, and we each get our own cabin: pretty plush accommodations for a yacht at sea. However, it means that we will be standing watches of 4 hours on, 4 hours off. If you are unable to adapt to such a schedule, then you have no business crewing on a yacht. If you are not sure if you can adapt (i.e., it has been years since you drove cross-country with limited, worked a graveyard shift, etc) then maybe you should try it out: take a nap each day, and wake up at midnight and do chores around your apartment or something for 4 hours, then wake up again at 8am. If you can do that for a week and sleep whenever you have time, THEN contact me.

Below is the CREW page as it appeared in the past. Rather than updating the whole page, I have added the preceding prescript to clarify my current thinking.

 


Crewing on Fellow Traveler provides one a unique opportunity to explore the world onboard a solid, seaworthy sailing yacht. It is a way of exploring new places that is unlike any other. The boat is our home, providing comfortable bunks, an ample galley to feed us, and all the systems we need to live in reasonable comfort wherever we sail to. 

 

So, what is required to come crew on Fellow Traveler ? Concerning crew,  noted sailor and mountaineer Bill Tillman's opinion is above, and  I heartily concur. Realistically, though, there are some minimal characteristics all crew need: 

 

 

Attitude: This is the most important item. If you are going to sail long distances with strangers on a small boat, you need the right attitude. I look for crew who are open-minded, easy-going, and fun, with a willingness to “pitch in” with the regular chores. You do not need to be the life of the party, but you should be able to get along with most people, even when they are different from you. Any experiences such as extended wilderness backpacking or mountaineering, or other situations where you lived in close quarters with minimal comforts and dealt with the challenges nature chucks your way are good preparation and solid credentials for crewing. You will need to stand your watches, even if you are seasick, tired, or cold. If you just got off watch, but something comes up requiring all hands, you should be able to rise to the occasion. And should the shit ever hit the fan, you need to be able to be a positive, helpful member of the crew, not an additional burden or problem. You should be able to be content, even when you are wet, hot or cold, and uncomfortable. You need to be able to live with rather limited privacy and space, and with fellow crew whose personal hygiene, like yours, may be slipping a little while on passage.       


     
     I have heard sea passages described as 95% boredom interspersed with 5% sheer terror. I would not describe my experiences in such extremes, but the ratio and basic idea are not far off base. However, when an island 2000 miles from where you started looms up on the horizon, suddenly it all seems to be worthwhile. There is a satisfaction and sense of accomplishment upon arrival that is totally missing when flying in to a distant place. You are not just vacationing. You are not a tourist. You are a sailor who has earned the right to be there the hard way.


Experience: Basically, none is required. It is wise to know you are not overly prone to motion sickness. If you have done any boating where there was some chop or swell, or can ride in the back of a bus on mountain roads, or hit turbulence on planes and not get queasy, you will probably do fine. This does not mean you will not get seasick, just that it will probably pass in a day or two.

Crew On Watch at the Helm
Money: Sorry, I am poor. I am in no position to offer anyone free travel. And, in my experience, such opportunities are rather rare. Personally, I’d love to do a raft trip down the Grand Canyon. I am a former professional raft guide and world class whitewater paddler. Can I get a free trip? I don’t think so. I could probably get on a private trip with friends, but I would still have to pay for my share of food, gear rental, transportation, etc., even if I was rowing the support raft. It is the same when sailing with me.

I do not want to belabor this point, but it has arisen too many times, including ad nauseum on one crew website. So, let me put it another way. Lets say I am looking for a place to live. You happen to have a house with an extra bedroom, so offer for me to stay in the bedroom if we share expenses. Now, a month goes by, and you need some money to pay the bills. I say, "but I should not have to pay for heat, as you would have heated the house if I was here or not. And electricity: you run your appliances anyway. And food: it does not cost much more to cook for two than for one, so that should be almost nothing." Silly, you think. But, I have heard all of these arguments before from people wanting to crew with me and pay me almost nothing for their recreation.

Let's be real here, people. We do this because it is fun. I have friends who are crew on mega-yachts. They get paid good money, but they also work hard. They do not go snorkeling when at anchor, they polish the stainless, varnish the woodwork. They maintain a neat appearance at all times. They have extensive experience before seeking the job, and extensive training to qualify for it. Likewise, I have had crew who worked for me on the tourist boats I have captained. They haul ice, beer, and sodas to the boat in the morning, then spend their day hoisting sails and mixing drinks, taking food orders, and otherwise running the boat while making sure the guests are happy. They maintain a neat appearance. At the end of the day, they scrub the boat so it is ready to do the exact same thing again the next day. They get paid, but they have undergone the required training to do their job (STCW to start). If you want to do paid crew work,  then get the experience, the training, and go for one of these jobs. But please, do not contact me expecting to get paid, or a free ride. I do not need such crew. When I sail off on Fellow Traveler, it is for pleasure, and I seek crew who also wish to sail for the sheer pleasure. As such, I expect them to contribute to the real expenses of the trip.  To simplify things, and to better allow you to budget, I have set a fixed base price of $30 a day. This includes your food, your bunk, plus your share of the fuel, water, routine and long-term maintenance, customs and harbor fees, etc. What it does not include is: 


junk food: Yeah, sometimes we might cook brownies or something, but if you are a chocoholic, you may want to bring your own stash aboard. It is nice to have something to munch on during the late-night watches.

Booze: See FOOD below.

Visa/Immigration
fees: Any fees charged for you to enter or leave a country, or procure a visa, are your responsibility.

So, reality check: yeah, it cost some money to go sailing to exotic places on a sailboat.
If you love to hike, snorkel, beach-comb, et cetera, you are looking at not much more than the $30 a day. If you want to rent a scooter, go diving, carouse all night, maybe a little more, but still cheap. After all, these activities cost the same no matter how you got to the island or where you are staying. How about right now? How much do you spend now on food? Rent? Transportation? Recreation? Probably a lot more than what you will while aboard. How much did you spend on your last vacation? Remember, this $30 a day is paying for your accommodations, most of your food, your transportation between islands, your recreation. What a bargain!!! The reality is this is a very cheap way to live, and a very cheap way to travel. Best of all, it is a unique experience unlike anything else you will ever do. One other money issue: You have to have the resources to get yourself home from wherever we are. Sometimes this will be an airline ticket from where you plan to leave the boat, and sometimes it will be cash. This is required by many countries that want to insure you have the means to leave when you depart the boat.


So, back to the general requirements:

Mormake Tupu, San Blas, Panama
Time: I am looking for crew who are interested in spending several months aboard. This allows plenty of time to learn the routines aboard, do a passage between island groups, and still have time to explore and island hop once we get to the destination.


Work: It takes a surprising amount of work to prepare, provision, and maintain a sea-going yacht. As well, crew will take their turns being chef of the day. This involves cooking the meals and washing the dishes afterwards. In addition, they are expected to help with any and all maintenance and cleaning chores aboard. As much of the maintenance falls to me (experience with the boat, etc), often the crew end up with a disproportionate amount of cleaning duties. However, there is always plenty of time to snorkel, hike, read, or just relax. That is why we are out here, right?


Physical Condition: You need to be generally fit and healthy. Sailing does not require a high degree of strength or conditioning, but moving around a sailboat underway, handling sail changes, et cetera, do require good balance and coordination and reasonable strength. If you have any debilitating illnesses or handicaps, please inform me when you inquire about crewing. Also, I should know when you originally contact me if you have any medical conditions that might arise and impact the trip. If the heaviest thing you have lifted in months was a carry-out pizza, maybe you need to think about how you will cope working aboard.


Language: If you are reading this, I presume you are reasonably proficient at English. As long as we can communicate in English, no problem. I would consider crew who speak Spanish or Portuguese as well as I speak a little and need the practice!


Who should not consider crewing on Fellow Traveler :

1) Smokers. Fellow Traveler is a no smoking boat. I may occasionally make an exception on this, but generally speaking I don’t want to be around it.

2) Druggies. The laws of the US and nearly everywhere else in the world mean that no one is allowed to bring drugs aboard EVER! If the Coast Guard finds drugs on the boat, I could lose it. And the Coast Guard has the right to search the boat whenever they want, no warrant required.

3) Strict Vegetarians. See FOOD below.

4) Bigots. No exceptions, no explanations required.


Some General info about Crewing on Fellow Traveler:


Some Island Local Color
Privileges of ownership: Fellow Traveler is my home. I bought her, have spent years fixing her up so she is capable of crossing oceans... I have a lot invested in her. So yeah, I get the nice, big owners cabin in the back of the boat. Not fair, you say? No problem. Pay me $150,000 and the boat is yours. You can have whatever bunk you want and I'll pay you $30 a day until I move on.



Visas. You need to do your own research about what visas you need to enter the countries we are visiting. A good starting point is the website: www.noonsite.com This site is full of information for cruisers. If you are from the US, Canada, Western
Europe, or Japan, you will find most countries do not require advance visas. You can contact me (very early!) to help sort out the visa requirements.


Inoculations: Check your local health clinic - they know far more than I do. Check long before the trip begins as some require several doses. 

"Anywhere at sea there are hazards, otherwise small-boat sailing would have less appeal."             Bill Tilman


Liability: Sailing across oceans, or even daysailing involves risk. Seamanship minimizes those risks. Unfortunately, they can not be completely eliminated. When you sign onboard Fellow Traveler, you assume those risks. All crew will be required to sign a liability waiver.


Gear: Each crew member should arrive with his own foul weather gear.
I have safety harnesses and tethers aboard, but I would recommend you get your own to avoid sharing one, insure proper and comfortable fit, et cetera. If you are aboard only for the tropics, a lightweight foulie jacket or raincoat along with a sweatshirt, or sweater, should suffice, although I recommend bringing a fleece jacket as night watches can get chilly even in the tropics.  If you will be sailing in temperate climates, then a heavier-duty foul-weather jacket and pants are needed along with a fleece jacket or something else that keeps you warm when wet. I have no plans at the moment to sail beyond the temperate zone (there be dragons there! You fall off the edge of the earth! Well, maybe you just freeze your nuggies off! Not my idea of fun). So, you won’t need a survival suit.

San Blas Welcome Wagon
So, if you are still interested in sailing on Fellow Traveler, contact me with the pertinent info. Be sure to include contact info, particularly email, basic bio stuff, experience if any, and why you want to do the trip. Be sure to let me know what particular segment(s) of the trip you are interested in and how long you could be aboard. If I offer you the crew position, you will need to send a deposit to hold the space. Sorry, but there are too many dreamers out there who make the commitment (and I to them) and then flake out. Then, I am suddenly scrambling for crew, sailing solo, overstretching my budget, etc. The deposit required is $450.00 US and is basically paying for half of your first month aboard. Your deposit can be made via Paypal online (Paypal is connected to Ebay and was developed as a safe, secure way to transfer money. I never know your credit card info, bank info, etc, only that you have paid the money. If you prefer not to pay online let me know when you contact me so we can work out alternatives
. If you have any doubts that I am legit, honest, etc, I’d first say that if I were doing internet scams, I sure as hell could come up with a better one than this! But, I can also provide references of people who have sailed with me in the past should you want.


I
normally take on only one crew at a time, but might consider taking two.  Fellow Traveler is a very comfortable boat for just two or three people. However, no boat is as roomy or private as a typical American house. You need to be comfortable living in fairly minimal space.


FOOD


Pizza in the Cockpit I am an omnivore. I eat almost anything, particularly if it is fresh (I don’t like a lot of canned foods). I am also a bit of a gourmet, and appreciate good food. If you are a strict vegetarian you should look elsewhere for a crew position. Sorry, I respect your choice, but am not a vegetarian myself, and it is just too difficult to try to prepare meals that work both ways and impossible to cook multiple options for each meal.


If you do not eat red meat that is not a problem  as red meat is rarely served aboard. When it is, it is often in the form of a few pieces of ham in a black bean soup, proscuitto in a pasta dish, or a soup or stew, not a big steak bleeding all over your plate. If you, like me, try to avoid too much red meat but are not a particularly picky eater, you will eat fine.


When at sea or in remote anchorages, 3 meals a day are provided. When in port, 2 meals are provided. In harbor one can grab something cheap at a local market and take off hiking for the day; it frees up everyone to spend their time in port how they want without galley-duty, schedules, etc. in the middle of the day. Junk food is generally rather
limited. You may want to bring a stash of chocolate bars, nuts, or other munchies for the late night watches. My preference, when on passage, is to have two meals a day and the third “meal” is something that each individual can eat while on their night watch: perhaps a sandwich, piece of fruit, or a couple of brownies.


Fellow Traveler has a modest fridge and freezer aboard which keeps us in good stead for the start of a passage or trip to a very remote part of the globe. Towards the end, we eat more pasta and rice with canned tomatoes, etc. In remote areas of the world, provisioning can be sketchy at best, and food selections are more limited. Nothing like visiting Africa or an isolated island to make you appreciate an American or European grocery! But who knows? Maybe we will get lucky and catch a fish!


Booze: due to health concerns I have eliminated almost all alcohol for myself. I no longer keep alcohol (except for wine for cooking) aboard as I do not need the temptation. Crew can purchase and bring their own supply of booze if they want. Alcohol is not consumed when underway.

   









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