"When I was in grade school, they told me to write down what I wanted to be when I grew up. I wrote down happy. They told me I did not understand the assignment, I told them they did not understand life."       Unknown

“We tend to forget that happiness doesn't come as a result of getting something we don't have, but rather of recognizing and appreciating what we do have.”    Unknown

I decided to sail direct from Huahine, in French Polynesia, to Tonga. There were several reasons for this. In between there are possible stops in the Cook Islands, American Samoa, and Western Samoa and Niue. The Southern Cook Islands and Niue do not have much in the way of nice, secure anchorages. They are fine so long as weather is settled and reasonably calm, but you might have to put to sea if the winds picks up from the wrong quadrant. Being basically a wimp sailor, I prefer to sail when conditions are nice and go into harbor when they are rough, not the opposite! American Samoa has little to offer cruisers, based on all reports, yet is the only US harbor to my knowledge that charges fees of American-flagged yachts for clearing in. In fact, the fees are rather higher than the other islands around. So, that was a logical miss. Western Samoa interested me, but I was hoping family might join me in Tonga, and besides, the South Pacific Convergence Zone, with it's associated squally weather, was between me and Samoa. So, direct to Tonga it is. Weather forecasts were unclear as to how much wind would be associated with a strong high pressure that was bring the trades back after an extended period of light and variable winds, but I decided to depart anyway. Instead of the 20-25 knots predicted in the last forecast I downloaded, I encountered several days of 35+ knots. Any boat out sailing the Pacific should have no problem with these conditions, particularly if on the quarter, as for me. However, that does not mean we like it! Several waves "pooped" the stern of Fellow Traveler, not a big deal as my center cockpit stayed dry. However, Morgan 461's have an aft-facing companionway directly above the bunk in the aft cabin. The water found every gap in this companionway and several times drenched my bunk!  All I can say is, if salt water in your bunk is not a possibility one can live with, buy a cabin in the mountains. It happens. I made it to Tonga in 10 days, a respectable pace, and have thus put passages of a week or more behind me until I head North of the Equator again.

I have decided I rather like Tonga. It does not wow you with spectacular, jagged peaks rising out of beautiful lagoons, nor does it have (at least in the parts I explored) miles of turquoise waters spiced with superb snorkeling reefs everywhere. I would say there is a "serene" quality to the beauty of Tonga, and the lifestyle here. Anchored in the main town of Vava'u, the island group I stopped at, I can not recall ever hearing a car horn. A "good morning" or nod of the head always elicits a broad smile and greeting in return.

I did find one superb snorkel location, which had a huge array of hard corals of great variety in shape in color. I do not recall seeing coral in these shades before: navy blue to indigo, olive greens all the way to a bright leaf green.

Mostly, what I have enjoyed about Tonga, though, is being able to slow down. I have spent more time in a small area here than anywhere since leaving the San Blas, and yet, I am leaving with the wish I could see more. I have found myself torn of late: knowing that this is my perhaps one opportunity to see the islands of the South Pacific yet also feeling weary of sailing alone and looking forward to my arrival in the Philippines where I hope to make my home in the future, staying long enough to make friends and perhaps find a partner to join me on future explorations.

FIJI - MAKOGAI

I cleared into Fiji in Savu Savu and spent a week catching up on email while waiting for crew to arrive and some stronger trade winds to blow out. Savu Savu is a nice, pretty, and friendly town with decent facilities for yachts.

A 1/2 day sail took us South to Koro: a very attractive island, but the anchorage left a lot to be desired as it was rather exposed, a bit rolly, and scattered with coral heads. We left the following morning for Makogai...and found a nice little paradise island. Makogai was home to a leper colony that at it's peak housed 8000 people. Now it is a marine research station that is raising giant clams to repoplulate Fijian waters. About twenty people live around the bay where the research station is and another 50 live in a "village" on the other side of the island in some other buildings of the former leper colony.  The island is beautiful, the people welcoming and friendly, and the snorkeling excellent!

Below are photos from Makogai. Scroll over the images to learn more, or click on them to see a large version.

 

 

Information for future visitors: be sure to snorkel the rocks at the point of the small islands on the Northern edge of the anchorage. The hike to the village is easy except for the first 100 yards, and well worth it for the views near the end and friendly people and scenery in the village.